STITCHING THE DRAGON’S TALE
On the Surveyor General’s 1:50 000 topographical survey maps, the last reference to “Drakensberg” is the area along the escarpment between Barkly East and Elliot. The Surveyor General is surely the final arbiter of location? Despite geographically challenged folks assertions to the contrary, this area should accordingly be referred to as the Southern Drakensberg.
There being several passes crossing the escarpment as well as a number of others within the area, “Stitching the Dragon’s Tale” seemed to be the most appropriate description for traveling these high roads and by-roads! Well-known travel and adventure journalist, Geoff Dalglish was in the area some years ago and penned descriptions of some of these routes that I deemed to be of interest to readers.
Information on 4 passes in the area – by Geoff Dalglish
1 THE BASTERVOETPAD NB: Not a good idea for 2x4 or single vehicles
# Top 10 choice
- The route is currently in a shocking condition
Best time of year Year round
Maximum vehicles Unlimited
Route distance 39km (2 hours)
Grading 1-2
GPS point S 31’ 12.333 E 28’ 11.366
Why to go there
- The Bastervoetpad is a spectacular backcountry route that is little travelled.
- We enjoyed it so much we tackled it in both directions on successive days.
- The only company you’re likely to find on route is an occasional herder and Jackal Buzzard riding the thermals.
- Bastervoetpad can be combined in a giant 270km loop from Rhodes that includes Naude’s Nek, the highest mountain pass in South Africa. Allow up to 10 hours or, better still, overnight along the way.
The route
We explored the Bastervoetpad after looping from Rhodes over Naude’s Nek to Maclear and Ugie, visiting the Dinosaur’s Footprints on route, which made for a very long but satisfying day. If you approach from Ugie turn right from the tar 4km out of town onto the Wildebeeshoek dirt road – if you pass beneath the overhead railway bridge you have gone too far. Then you fork right 10km later for the start of the Bastervoetpad. Alternately, head out of Rhodes on the main dirt road to Barkly East, turning left to Bokspruit after 14km, forking right at 18km and then veering left to Eliot at the 32km mark. After 67km you turn sharply left onto the clearly signposted Bastervoetpad, heading over the Lapa Munnik Pass. Whichever way you have approached from you’ll enjoy a superb scenic drive. The 39km road is a tribute to the vision and road building skills of Maclear roads inspector Leon Barnard, the views growing ever more spectacular as you climb to the 2240m saddle. In early May the rocky track was in reasonable repair and could have been managed in two-wheel drive, although low range made the journey safer and more enjoyable. Some ascents and descents are likely to be treacherous in very wet or snowy conditions.
What else?
Between Rhodes and Maclear you can enjoy all the attractions of the Southern Drakensberg, including breathtaking scenery, superb fly fishing, a treasure trove of San rock art, horse riding, hiking and a variety of delightful B&Bs and guest farms.
Where to stay
Refer to pages 49 & 50
Why I loved it
“A long-standing love affair with the tranquility of Rhodes was combined with the discovery of fabulous new 4x4 possibilities, the Bastervoetpad even allowing for a very chilly skinny-dip!” Geoff Dalglish.
TICK BOX
Why it’s a Top 10 choice
# driving challenges
# ability to maintain interest
# scenery
# the richness of fauna and flora
# the variety of attractions on offer
#quality or appeal of camping or accommodation facilities
# commitment to preserving/rehabilitating the environment
# charisma or commitment of guides/owners
# value for money
# wilderness or get-away-from-it-all experience
2 RHODES-NAUDESNEK ROUTE
Best time of year Year round
Maximum vehicles Unlimited
Route distance 110km (3-5hours)
Grading 1-2
GPS point S 30’ 43.942 E 28’ 08.221
Why to go there
- Naude’s Nek is South Africa’s highest road pass and a passport to dizzyingly beautiful Drakensberg mountain scenery.
- It is an ideal link to other great 4x4 drives including the Bastervoetpad and an 84km loop via the Lesotho border patrol “road” starting and finishing in Rhodes.
The route
Turn the clock back more than a century to 1896 and one can imagine the horseback ride that the Naude brothers – Stefanus and Gabriel – endured while following footpaths and surveying the original route across the neck. On one occasion a family member commented that it was too steep and daunting for a baboon even, given rise to the name Bobbejaankop, on the way up. You summit after 24km – our GPS reading 2603m – with the Naude’s Nek road intersecting with the track from Tiffindell eight km later on the escarpment before the descent to Maclear begins. The newly built Tenahead Lodge is 4km from this point. Along the way, you enjoy a marvellously scenic drive on mostly good roads, with the route from Rhodes being suitable even for a sedan in the good weather we encountered early in May. The dirt ends at the town of Maclear. Inquire about prevailing conditions and accept the advice of locals who best understand the vagaries of alpine weather.
What else?
Another trail option is to take the Carlisleshoek route out of Rhodes towards Tiffindell, entering the white farm gate 1,8km from the ski resort, and then heading down Naude’s Nek track for an 84km loop that takes four or five hours in good weather.
Where to stay
Refer to pages 49 & 50
Why I loved it
“Driving South Africa’s highest pass is a must for the tick-list and Naude’s Nek a rich scenic reward for the effort in tearing yourself away from the hamlet of Rhodes.” Geoff Dalglish.
3 RHODES-CARLISLESHOEK ROUTE
Best time of year Year round
Maximum vehicles Unlimited
Route distance 24km (1 hours)
Grading 1-2
GPS point S 30’ 47.726 E 27’ 57.837
Why to go there
- The quaint 112-year-old hamlet of Rhodes is a national monument in the heart of the spectacular Southern Drakensberg.
- This is an area renowned for its unspoilt beauty numbering trout fishing, snow skiing, hiking, horse riding and pure relaxation among its drawcards.
- It’s a time warp where there are no room keys to the local hotel and crime is hardly an issue.
The route
You take the Carlisleshoek road to the Tiffindell Ski Resort and Ben McDhui, at 3001m is the highest peak in the Cape. A sign at the base of this dirt road tells you of impending conditions, which were an easy 45-minute run at the beginning of May, but can deteriorate to Mission Impossible at the height of the snow season between June and early September. Normally this route is quite manageable for 4x2s and soft-roaders, although steep ascents out of hairpin bends, can have you wishing for more power or low range, with a little bit of momentum sometimes necessary to help a heavily-laden high range vehicle. When conditions are tricky because of snow, ice or mud, the Tiffindell Ski Resort runs a shuttle in 4x4s fitted with chains. The pick-up point in Rhodes is at Walkerbouts Inn. Inquire about prevailing conditions and accept the advice of locals who best understand the vagaries of alpine weather. The Carlisleshoek Route can also be linked to the Wartrail or Naudes Nek Routes for a much more extensive drive.
What else?
Access to the starting point of Rhodes takes you 120km along excellent roads from Aliwal North, with the 60km stretch of dirt beginning just outside of Barkly East. The final few kilometres are slow, demanding extreme caution, but are part of the fun.
Where to stay
Rhodes Hotel, 3-star Walkerbouts Inn (045 974 9290), 5-star Tenahead Lodge (045 974 8902) or Tiffindell Ski Resort (011 787 9090 or 045 974 9004/5). Self-catering – Highlands Info.co.za. Recommendations include the Steepside Guest Farm (045 974 9240).
Why I loved it
“Rhodes offers the sense of community lost in the cities, against the backdrop of superb Drakensberg scenery. The area offers true relaxation.” Geoff Dalglish.
4 THE WARTRAIL & BIDSTONE PASS – VOLUNTEERSHOEK
Best time of year Year round (treacherous or impossible in snow)
Maximum vehicles Unlimited
Route distance 28 km (1 hour)
Grading 1-2
GPS point S 30’ 39.196 E 27’ 55.556
Why to go there
- This adventure through the Witteberg range of the Southern Drakensberg makes you want to be a local farmer or B&B owner.
- Spectacular scenery changes with the seasons but the Wartrail Valley is always picturesque.
- The driving challenge varies from easy to downright daunting or impossible, depending on weather conditions.
- You can hike to the highest point in the Cape with the 3001m Ben McDhui overlooking the ski resort.
The route
From the Tiffindell Resort you head back down the mountain for 1,4km, turning right at the T-junction to the Bidstone Pass and Wartrail, an area that has been home to South Africa’s First People, the San Bushmen, early Xhosa and Sesotho groups, 1820 Settler families and trekboers. It was also the scene of raiding parties led by Chief Moshesh’s generals, giving the route its name. Today it is a picture of perfection, although the serpentine descent into the valley, with its tight hairpins, will keep your concentration focussed. After heavy rains or when the snow melts, conditions become difficult and streams can become too deep for safe passage – last year two young girls drowned when their 4x4 Dad attempted a crossing against local advice! Our recommended route takes you 28km from the resort to the intersection where you can fork left to Moshesh’s Ford, or right to New England and Barkly East. Check on the prevailing weather and road conditions before your trip.
What else?
The route features all types of accommodation from camping to en-suite fully catered B&Bs to suit all pockets; with attractions including abundant San rock art in the mountains.
Where to stay
Refer to pages 49 & 50
Why I loved it
“In early May it was a riot of autumn colours and a spectacle to rival Golden Gate on the Free State side of the mountains. Now I plan to return to see it blanketed in snow.” Geoff Dalglish.