At approximately 2550m above sea level, Loch Ness is without doubt the highest trout dam open to the public for flyfishing. What makes it even more special is the fact that the trout in the dam are self-sustaining, breeding in the feeder streams. That having been said,getting there and surviving the extreme weather adds further challenge to any intrepid fly fisherman.
GETTING THERE
Given that you’re ascending more than 750m in under 10 km, the drive up is always an expedition. Before one tackles it, check out the weather and road conditions. Don’t assume that the same beautiful sunny, windless day you’re enjoying in Rhodes will be what you encounter as you drive up the Carlisleshoek valley. It is very seldom that the wind doesn’t blow. It is also possible that there could have been rain the night before, which in winter could either have turned into snow or at the very least ice. This means the road conditions can always be a surprise.
The first approximately 8km is fairly flat, winding up against the Carlisleshoekspruit. There are small streams that flow into the main spruit, very often without culverts that make the road uneven. There are also 3 low fords with concrete structures over the Carisleshoekspruit which can become treacherous if there has been a sudden downpour. This is particularly to be borne in mind when you start to descend.
The very steep sections of the road have concrete strips but be careful to stay on them and watch out for places where the concrete has eroded away and reinforcing bars are exposed. There are a number of areas where there is sheer drop down to the river below, so if you get something wrong, you could roll down a long way.
On reaching the plateau, the road conditions are variable with sections of wash-aways and potholes. In some places the surface has a high clay content, making for very slippery conditions if wet. The descent can be more hair raising. The very steep sections will challenge your brakes, so engage low gear and it is always advisable to engage hill descent if you vehicle has it. So in summary, a 4x4 is always advisable. Make sure you knowhow to use the settings on your vehicle to match the conditions. There are many stories of people that land up in the wrong setting, making the trip even more of an adventure. Ascend with confidence and descend with caution.
WEATHER
Because of the significant increase in altitude, you can always expect at least a 5°decrease in the temperature. As already indicated, the wind almost always blows. Clouds, blow up very quickly and will often turn into rain, or in winter sleet and snow. Lightning is always a risk, especially in summer. Keep looking up and remember that getting off the mountain will take at least 45minutes. No matter the time of the year, we always take rain jackets, warm clothes, towels, blankets and some food (we recommend the use of waders year round). We also make sure we have a good pair of walking shoes.
If you happen to get wet (not paying attention and falling in the water), the low temperatures and wind will quickly lead to hyperthermia. If your vehicle breaks down or gets stuck, you may land up walking quite a few kilometers, so always best to be prepared. In the same way, make sure you have suitable equipment for emergency vehicle repairs and never go up without at least one sparetyre in good condition. If you travel up in winter, it’s highly likely there’ll be ice flows on many of the rocky outcrops. Also don’t be surprised if the dam itself is frozen, sometimes even fully. Trying to walk on the ice is entirely at your own risk of an extremely cold swim. Whilst the ice is relatively thick at the edges, it is usually less so in the middle, especially where the wind has caused the ice to shift on not be fully aligned.
THE FISHING
This has to be on the bucket list of any fisherman. At just over 6hectares, there is ample water. The structure is varied and with plenty of weed beds and the fish are always in good condition. The entire dam is easily accessible as there are no trees or beds of reeds. Watch out for marshy sections, especially at the various stream inlets. Expect to catch healthy, strong fish. The dam has not been stocked for a considerable number of years and has a healthy self-sustaining population.
There are plenty of fish over 50cm which we regularly catch. This year, Terry Babich caught a 72cm fish, off a float tube. They are usually lean, deep bodied, mature fish, with exquisite colouring which does vary considerably, depending on the time of the year. Fishing off a float tube is great, but not essential. The float tubes allows one to fish between the weed beds more easily. It also provides access to the channels around the two islands that were created in the dam. It also means that landing a fish is sometimes more successful as it’s easier to keep them out of the weeds. That being said, if the wind is howling, an anchor is essential, but still expect to spend much time paddling or kicking into the wind!
Wading is probably more satisfying. One can walk all around the dam, although you’ll almost always be casting into the wind. The main channel runs close to the left bank (facing up stream). If you can figure the depth of the channel and get properly into it, a nymph and/or a red worm pattern will usually always be successful on a dead drift, under a strike indicator. Frequently it is easier to fish from the shallower, more gradual right bank. Mainly as you’ll most cast with the wind behind you, so the cast happens “on its own” and a dead drift rig will naturally continue to move away from you (as long as it doesn’t snag in the weeds). The only downside of this bank is the considerable amount of silt. You can wade fairly far out, but be wary of getting stuck in the mud and over-balancing. Also don’t wear Korkers or other wading boots with removable soles. The soles do tend to get stuck in mud and stay behind (speaking from experience).
Fishing a streamer, Wooly bugger, either green or black and a Mrs Simpson can always result in an exciting sharp bang from a hungry or irritated fish. Given the good weed structure, damsels and dragons can also be very successful. If you’re lucky enough to be there on a windless day, dry flies maybe successful. There are frequently mayfly hatches in summer and emerger patterns should also be tried.
WHAT ELSE TO DO
Even if you don’t go to fish, it is an enjoyable drive with plenty to see. There is a braai facility, but be extremely careful of ambers flying around when the wind gets up and be aware of dry grass. One can also drive up to Tiffindell, although at the moment, the best you can is look through the gates.
Birding
Perhaps not abundant, but there are certainly a few species that are not seen at lower altitudes. Some birds to look out for:
Bearded Vulture
Cape Vulture
Ground Woodpecker
Drakensburg Rockjumper
Bald Ibis
African Snipe
Grey-winged Francolin
Grey Crowned Crane
Secretary Bird
Sentinel Rock Thrush
Verreaux’s Eagle
Cape Bunting
Wild flowers
A unique environment offers an abundance of wild flowers, mainly in summer. Refer to various other articles in this guidebook for some of the species to look out for.
IN SUMMARY
A visit to Loch Ness is an experience not to found anywhere else in South Africa. Don’t be put off by all of the warnings. To have an enjoyable experience, you need to be prepared and ready for a few unusual eventualities, but the trip will always result in some interesting stories to recount. Please obtain a day permit for each rod from the Rhodes Information Centre or Walkerbouts Inn (after hours) before venturing up to Loch Ness. Only employ traditional fly-fishing techniques, practice catch-and-release and enjoy the kind access granted by the landowner. Above all please respect the dam and surrounding farmland as the private property it is and leave only boot prints.